Hi, I’m Steve Matthes, Transworld Motocross Editor at Large. With the advent of four-strokes, what we’ve been finding out in the local tracks is these things love to eat chains and sprockets. Just the torque of the bikes, the horsepower of these machines cuts through the average aluminum sprocket and chain pretty fast. So this week on the Transworld Motocross how to, presented by Bike Bandit, we’re gonna put on a Pro Taper rear sprocket, an RK excel front sprocket, and an RK chain, all on this CRF. Stick around.
All right, we removed the guard on the front sprocket. Now if you don’t have air gun or an electric gun or something of that sort, what you can do is put the bike in gear, have your mom or your buddies step on the rear brake, which we did already, and turn it loose. And that should break the countershaft off. Just a little tip. After you’ve broken the bolt loose on the countershaft, find the master link in the chain and pop that off, like so.
All right, I’ve got the rear wheel off. Now, sprockets can be dangerous on your knuckles and on your hands. So put the wrench on, just break loose, and then break all of the bolts loose first with your foot.
All right, the old sprocket is off. We’re putting the same amount of tooth of a rear sprocket on, a Pro Tapers 48 tooth sprocket, and one thing not to forget. Blue Loctite on the sprocket bolts, very important. Always use blue. Don’t use red or green. Let’s put this thing on.
All right, we’ve got our old chain and our new chain, and we’ve got this cool RK excel chain breaker. And what we’re going to do is since we’re installing the same size sprockets, we can use the old chain and line it up. If you’re using different size sprockets, put the new chain on the bike and kinda see where you want to go. But I know from judging by the adjustment of the old chain that we’re right about in the middle where we need to go. So you can see down here that I am four lengths too long. So let’s take those out.
All right, chain’s ready for install. All right, I’ve installed the countershaft with Blue Loctite on the bolt. And as we don’t have any air or electric gun of any sort, I put the bike in gear, and that’s how I tighten it. And you can hold it down over here and just snug that up pretty much as good as you can. Double-check it as well after a couple of rides. And remember– use Loctite.
All right, we’ve got the chain on. And I went a little short because it’s good on a new chain to go a little short because then it’ll stretch and get back to the length you want. So I’ve had to adjust my chain. I’ve got it at a somewhat ballpark position. Got the chain on. When you put the master clip on, always put it away from the direction of travel. That way, if you hit a rock, or you get in a rut, nothing’s gonna come and pop it off. So basically, you wanna go this way, the opposite of the chain, opposite of the way the wheel is gonna go. Line it up there. You can use a ponch or anything. I like just doing it like this…like so. The master clip’s on, and no way that it’s gonna come off and fly off.
All right, I put the chain…to give myself an idea of measurement, I put a wrench in the chain. I always like to go back, off the back of the swing arm to make sure you’re precise. The OEM blockers are not always correct. And by my measurement, 9.2 mm, so we’re good there. Simply take the chain off and you want to take the wrench out, I should say. Tighten up your adjusters.
Really you’re looking for, ideally, on a Honda, it could be a little tighter because of the linkage and the shock position. But ideally, you’re looking for three fingers on top of the rubber, and you should be pretty good. And like I said, this being a new chain, this will stretch pretty quickly. Probably need about two or three adjustments, and you should be good.
There you have it. Chain, sprockets, everything you need to go riding. That’s been this week’s Transworld how to, presented by Bike Bandit, brah.